Last season saw the rise of the statement print, now we’re looking forward to what we think will be next season’s heavy hitters…
The colder months are hardly synonymous with an abundance of print. Our winter wardrobes are mainly made up of a more muted colour blocked palette of blacks, greys and burgundies. But as we wrap up in a multitude of layers to stave off the cold our minds wonder to what next season has in store for us.
From September’s catwalk offerings there was everything that you would expect from bold oversized floral prints and vibrant bursts of colour. We’ve rounded up five of our favourite designers whose innovative use of print really put them on our radar.
Peter Pilotto SS 14
Peter Pilotto has fast become synonymous with seriously flattering graphic printed dresses that became some of the most sought after items of last season. His SS 14 collection was no different and we saw some of the most beautiful dresses and two pieces of the week. The feminine silhouette was enhanced by crinolines layered over with orchid lace which created a fantastic 3D effect. Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, the designers, explained; ‘the crinolines are to do with this idea of cinematic perspective and perspective achieved with light and shaddow. You could see through the layers and it was like bringing our print into this momre 3D world.”
The collection was influenced by the American ceramicist and painter Ken Price, who is known for his weird and abstract sculptures made of fired clay. The collection from Peter Pilotto was what we have come to expect from the two designers and was a refreshing break away from the somewhat overplayed use of floral prints.
Christopher Kane has easily become one of the most popular designers in the industry with an unmistakably recognisable style that is often replicated by the high street but never as good as the original.
Kane took the idea of the classic floral print and turned it on its head with stunning results: sweaters and mid-length skirts were adorned with science class diagrams of the photosynthesis process. The entire collection was rife with the humour and energy that we’ve come to expect from the designer, the fun applique prints and embellishments juxtaposed with more formal garments created a delicate balance that worked really well.
Roksanda Ilincic SS 14
Roksanda has become synonymous with hyper-feminie silhouettes and use of colour but this season the designer stepped away from what we have come to imagine from her. This season saw a more masculine approach to dressing with bold flashes of neon and sorbet shades next to cool geometric, art-inspired prints that pulled the looks together.
The flashes of prints included a tesselation of distorted cubist triangles that referenced the art trend that is set to be huge next summer. This almost lattice effect pattern was translated over onto some of the outerwear garments and cut out with lasers.
The collection had a sci-fi, almost futuristic, vibe to it but the contemporary use of colour and print held it back from looking like a parody of the 70’s idea of futuristic.
Mary Katrantzou SS 14
Known as the ‘Queen of Print’ the Greek born Central St Martins graduate is known for her amazingly vibrant tromp l’oeil designs which have included dollar bills, stamps and landscapes. After a previous collection that was slightly more subdued than usual for her, Katrantzou returned to the hyper-coloured prints that we have come to know and love.
The designer was inspired by her three favorite shoes; the brogue, the plimsoll and the evening shoe, and high quality blown up images were printed onto the garments. Sleeveless dresses and leggings were printed with close-ups of polished leather, laces and punctures. The images were printed on delicate silk that was then embroidered and embellished with Swarovski crystals on top which lent the garments a cool 3D effect.
Not one who is usually associated with print, Richard Nicoll took on pattern in his own unique way. Playing with texture and layering houndstooth, his prints appeared ghostly on white chiffon, creating a look that was exactly what you would expect from the designer.
The looks were a mix of sports-luxe and refined androgynous tailoring and the print was seriously refreshing compared to the intricate floral prints that are usually associated with summer. The print was clean and the texture added a really tactile element to the collection that made it overall wearable yet still with Nicoll’s avant-garde approach.
So there are a few of our favourite looks from Fashion Week for SS 14. Even though the weather is looking bleaker than a Dickens novel we’re dreaming of the colour, texture and print that we have to play with in 2014!